Pitti Uomo 91, previews of shoes for next winter
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by Paola Montanaro
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Revolution can be made with shoes. At least according to the Parisian brand Solovière, which, under the cry “la beautè est dans la rue”, takes up the values of intellectual freedom of the French Revolution and prints them in a collection of shoes with soles in para, made with raw and at the same time refined and high-quality materials, the red thread of the brand since its first collection. The colors are neutral and delicate like camel and gray. The slippers, iconic pieces of the collections, are enriched with furs for a natural yet chic effect. A completely different starting scenario for the collection that Sutor Mantellassi brings on the occasion of Pitti: here we start from the design of the Casa del Sole that the Turin architect Carlo Mollino designed in the Fifties in Cervinia, a vertical village in contrast to the classic mountain chalets for innovative shapes, but at the same time close to tradition thanks to the use of materials such as wood and stone. Meeting point for aristocrats, entrepreneurs, celebrities, the Cervinia of the Fifties and Sixties was the protagonist of the Italian Dolce Vita that loved to ski on the Plateau Rosà glacier all year round, and the brand pays homage to it with a collection that among its key pieces prominently features the revisited mountaineering boot, obviously for the city. The main materials used are hand-dyed master, calf, soft reversed calf, and alligator. True to its own DNA, Geox brings to Pitti a new sneaker that, in addition to the innovative Inner Breathing system to ensure maximum breathability, presents a ‘sock’ structure for an easy fit and an ergonomic walk that ensures maximum comfort and lightness.
Among the important debuts to note is the entrance of Moon Boot into the urban world, with the new sneaker Mercury High Paris that combines the distinctive codes of the brand with the most sophisticated technologies and materials: suede upper with soft eco-fur inside, tone-on-tone braided leather laces, and contrast total white sole in waterproof eva rubber to ensure maximum flexibility to the fit. And the first collection of chameleon sneakers in plastic material, transparent, colorful, and breathable from AirDP, the concept brand that counts Alex Del Piero among its founders.
An explosion of color to the winter gray, instead, is brought by Sun68, which with the new collection of running shoes brings a blast of colors to men’s feet ranging from classic blue to strawberry red, mixing camo with fluo touches. The classic version of the men’s Superga mid, with waxed cotton upper and suede leather details, rises to the ankle, while the Vicenza denim brand Gas allies with UBC, a company specialized in the design, production, and marketing of footwear, for a limited edition of leather sneakers with essential style. Irony and Walt Disney characters find a place in the new collection of sneakers signed by Moa Master of Arts, a brand awarded the Disney Best Licensee of the Year 2016 with which The Walt Disney Company awards the best licensee each year for creativity and the enhancement of Disney tradition in an innovative way. Finally, the futuristic footwear by Watson Parker have leather uppers and linings, featuring quilted cotton fabric interiors and ultra-light soles.