Denim, here’s how it changes this fall
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by Paola Montanaro
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The most popular and democratic of fabrics is getting ready for the upcoming fall-winter with a series of proposals ranging from shoes to jackets, of course including pants. Among the upcoming novelties, this month Asos launches the first Eco Edit selection, a collection of sustainable clothing items, including denim pieces. The collection features garments made of recycled denim yarn (old ripped jeans repurposed) and organic cotton, and denim treated with chitosan, approved by Greenpeace (with reduced use of pesticides). The e-commerce site has worked with Remo, a company aiming to encourage the use of recycled fibers through its recycling facilities network, and each denim piece bearing the Remo label ensures complete transparency regarding the composition, water and energy savings, and origin of the recycled fibers. And it doesn’t stop there, as the company has also collaborated with DDI to create a rigid denim yarn. This recycled denim comes in 6-8 models: light wash, medium wash, and both light and medium wash with rips or abrasions, allowing for sustainable rejuvenation of denim. Environmental concern is also taken into account by the Cheap Monday collection, which since last year has started its journey towards sustainability. The ambition of the Stockholm brand is to “Be the most significant and sustainable urban jeanswear brand, born from those who believe in pop culture.” Thus, the first C/O Cheap Monday capsule was a limited edition collection from old garments. A real success because “reuse” is one of the most environmentally friendly methods to prolong the life cycle of clothing. The C/O Cheap Monday initiative was such a success that it was repeated this year as well, using organic cotton along with additional sustainable alternatives for finishing processes, so a large part of the denim is produced through a water and energy-saving process without major washing impacts.
Among the top collaborations, it’s worth noting Wrangler with Peter Max, who on the occasion of its 70th anniversary created a collection with the undisputed master of print and psychedelic art typical of the ’70s. Autumn 2017 is characterized by a mix of denim and dark colors, combined with corduroy and typical winter shades. It’s autumn that marks the beginning of a third story combining selvedge denim, indigo spotted jeans, and classic striped denim together with corduroy. The collection presents a range of deep shades like navy, burgundy, tobacco, and off-white; furthermore, an ironic digital print reproduces two works by Max, ‘Flower Runner’ and ‘Smile’. From Pepe Jeans London, a new finishing process called Dry Cult has been developed, immediately giving that natural stone-washed effect to denim pieces, which until recently could only be achieved through numerous washes. The London brand also dresses sneakers in denim. Among the cool pieces this season are the jacket with velvet collar by Kingsman, the jeans by Gucci featuring a tiger application, and the reversible bomber with denim trim.